65 GALLON TERRARIUM

 Although this has been a slow process, the 65 gallon tank seen in the photos below will be set up as a terrarium. Using glass panes, I am constructing 3 permanent dividers, affixed using aquarium silicone. Thus creating 4 distinct sections which will house 4 individual specie of salamander. It will mimic my 10 gallon terrarium but on a much larger scale. This terrarium will be filled with live plants, ground cover and moss in a rich black earth soil and complete glass covers. In essence this will become a completely living, self-sustaining habitat!

 

STEP 1: Setting Up Your Terrarium

It is best to decide ahead of time where the tank will be located. A suitable sized and sturdy stand should be used to properly support the weight of the tank. Smaller tanks are far easier to move around to various locations however, larger tanks pose more of a problem. Size and weight are an issue. It is best to set up your stand before-hand and position it where required prior to beginning. For more details on stands please refer to Set Up. I have yet to purchase a stand for my terrarium so for now it rests on my bedroom dresser, which luckily enough is strong enough to support the weight and fits the tanks dimensions perfectly. Once the stand is in place, carefully position the tank onto it. You are now ready to begin.    
 

STEP 2: Preparing Your Terrarium

Click to enlarge Even though your tank is new, it is best to properly prepare it before-hand to remove any dust or debris from shipping and/or storage. Again, never use soap, disinfectants or chemicals as this can leave behind traces, especially if not properly rinsed, thus causing harm to the future occupants. Luke warm or boiling water, if desired, is sufficient. Smaller tanks are far easier to prepare as the water can be easily dumped and re-rinsed. Larger tanks pose a more awkward task. Using buckets or dishes of water simply dump into the tank. Clean cloths or paper towels can be used to wipe the glass. As you can not physically lift the large tanks to dump the water, an absorbent towel or sponge is best to sop up the water, ringing it out into a nearby bucket. Once this process has been done 2 or 3 times you can move on.  
 

STEP 3: Affixing The Background

Click to enlarge Click to enlarge Not only do backgrounds add beauty to your terrarium but they also relieve stress to the newts and salamanders. The less open space they see, they more relaxed they can become. Backgrounds with nature scenes such as the one in the photo, will create a more natural habitat for your caudate. Backgrounds can cover as many sides as preferred (not all 4 sides though), but I prefer to cover the rear wall and in some cases one side which happens to be in a corner of a room, facing or against a wall, leaving the other sides open for viewing. Buy backgrounds appropriately sized for you tank by measuring the height and length required before-hand. Center the background to your approval and tack with tape into place. Once you have it where required, simply tape all edges securely and trim off excess. Fair size extras can be saved for use on quarantine tanks, cricket enclosures etc.... 


STEP 4: The Dividers (Optional)

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This step may be omitted as it depends on whether or not you are sectioning your tank for multiple species or setting your terrarium up for a single specie. If you are utilizing the entire terrarium for one specie (mixing is not recommended) then you can skip steps 4 and 5. However, if you are constructing your terrarium into multiple sections, for more than one specie as I, then please follow through.

As described above I will be housing 4 individual species of salamanders in my terrarium and due to this, will set the tank up with dividers. These cannot be purchased at any pet retailers with the exception of the flimsy, plastic fish dividers which will not work in this situation and are not as attractive either. Nor are they something you can easily make at home for yourself either unfortunately. To prevent stress on my salamanders I opted against siliconing a clear sheet of Plexiglas into the tank and instead thought of a viable method to use a background, in essence entirely separating the sections from each other. After repeated and failed attempts at using Plexiglas, I tried again with aid from a glass store. Plexiglas can warp and bend in humid/moist conditions over time, and it can not be sealed. Even a tiny pinhole will allow water and moisture to seep into the divider, causing damage to the background.  I took my invention and ideas to a local glass shop where they were finally perfected. Using ordinary glass panes, the background was centered and a spaghetti seal was used in-between as the primary seal. Once dried, a secondary seal was applied around the outside edge, used to further prevent moisture inside the divider. All edges were sanded to prevent sharp edges which would scratch the glass tank when installing.

The dimensions for the divider (s) and how many needed will depend entirely on your particular set up; how many sections required, how much space each specie requires or you wish to allow, the size of your tank etc... In my 65 gallon terrarium, I chose to house 4 species, therefore needing 3 dividers, sectioning the tank into approx. 1.5 square foot sections.    


STEP 5: Installing The Dividers

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Again, this step will be omitted if not separating the tank.

This is the challenging part of the set up. The less dividers, the easier the task....getting them into place, spaced properly, straight and then holding them securely to apply the silicone. Solution: Clamps and a measuring tape, possibly someone who is good with calculations is also advised. Keep in mind the inside and outside dimensions of your tank are different and you must also allow for the thickness of your divider (s). This can take some time. Once you are satisfied with the positioning of the divider (s) then clamp securely into place and tack the upper and lower portions with a dab of aquarium silicone and allow to fully cure, generally 24 hours. Only use aquarium silicone as it is specified for these tasks, is safe and non-toxic. It holds just as well as standard silicones from hardware stores but does not excrete acids as some do when wet. Once the silicone is fully cured, the clamps can be removed and the final seal applied. I opted to run the bead along the bottom and the back wall so the silicone is not visible, as it would be at the front. Grab your aquarium silicone. Gloves are nice to have on hand to prevent the sticky mess on your hands! By cutting the tip on a 45 degree angle easier allows the silicone to fill the gap. Run the bead along both sides of the divider (s), bottom and rear wall. Although there are many tools and gadgets available on the market, the easiest and cheapest method is to wet your finger and run it along the fresh bead. This not only pushes the silicone into the gap where needed, it removes excess silicone, fills in missed areas and also gives a smooth, even and flawless seam. Allow to cure again for at least 24 hours before moving on to the next step.


STEP 6: Adding Your Substrate    

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Your substrate or material used for a base for your terrarium is up to you. Strictly gravel can be used, but in this context we are setting the terrarium up as a living habitat and therefore I am using black earth soil, rich with nutrients for the plants, as well small worms and insects which will benefit the terrarium and the salamanders. 3 to 4 inches is best to allow for plant roots and growth. If common sense, proper hygiene and maintenance is followed then this substrate will pose no risk to the health of the occupants. I am looking into other methods of substrate set ups currently and will update as researched but another method that proves acceptable is to use an inch or two of standard aquarium gravel initially. A secondary layer of charcoal is recommended to help filter the water through the soil and keep it fresh. An inch layer is suitable.  A fiberglass screen meshing used to separate the layers and a 2-3 inch layer of soil on top. This is in the experimental stage currently.

 

STEP 7: Decorating Your Terrarium   

Over the years setting up various habitats, I have concluded that it is much easier to decorate your habitat not in steps, but all at once. Plants, and various decorations can always be added at later dates but for the initial set up having an idea ahead of time of the potential lay out and as many of those items available at this stage is best. Instead of planting your plants first, then moving onto the next object and determining its position a general idea, some imagination before-hand is easier and faster. In this terrarium, it will be set up as a completely living habitat....all natural, nothing manufactured or as little as possible.

To begin, live plants.
Click to enlarge Most garden centers carry a variety of small plants deemed "tropical terrarium" plants. Although our terrariums will not be tropical as caudates require cooler temperatures, most of these plants are suitable for this environment. Keep them watered, mist daily or every other day with a fine mist, remove dead leaves and standard aquarium fertilizer tablets are an excellent resource to have on-hand. Freshly planted plants should initially be fertilized to establish healthy roots and then fertilized every 2 to 4 months thereafter or when the plants begin to lose their healthy green color and/or appear droopy.

Next, to cover the soil. This is not necessary but I find salamanders will use the soil to burrow into and mainly because it can create a muddy mess, including your sallies which become little balls of mud :) Ground cover or various mosses can be purchased at most garden centers and grow easily in this moist habitat. It also creates a soft bed for the salamanders and is quite appealing to view. This will not be seen yet in my photos until spring.

Now the various decorations. Again, using natural products such as driftwood
Click to enlarge and rocks Click to enlarge in combination with the plants will create a beautiful habitat.

The important item to add: a water source. Although the habitat will be kept moist for the plants, salamanders absorb moisture through their skin from their habitat. If the habitat is too dry, this can cause dehydration. An alternate water source is recommended. A small, shallow water area can be incorporated into the habitat or simple use of a reptile water dish is sufficient.
Click to enlarge I have even tried to incorporate a beach area in my terrarium. Not sure how it will fair against the salamanders, or how much mess it will make but it is an experiment for now :) Using a product called Repti-Sand or regular beach sand even, natural colour gravel and small rocks laid this around the water dish. Click to enlarge

Now the fun part: Setting it all up. Again, the best method is to do it all at once with a good idea already in mind. Keep the plants in their pots and arrange them and all your decorations where desired and re-arrange until you have it set up to your liking. Remove the plants from their pots, dig a large hole half-way into your soil, plant and pack soil firmly around it. Water promptly and add a small portion of fertilizer tablet towards the roots. Place your rocks, driftwood etc....where desired and voila! Simple as 1-2-3.     

My results (front and side views):   Click to enlarge Click to enlarge
 

Individual sections (from left to right): 
Section 1:   Click to enlarge Click to enlarge Temporary home of my Ribbed newt youths.

Section 2:   Click to enlarge Click to enlarge This is my Emperor newts' home. John, Scott and Sasha.

 Section 3:   Click to enlarge Click to enlarge Home of Samantha my Blue Spotted salamander.

Section 4:   Click to enlarge Click to enlarge Temporary home of my young Oregon offspring.

 

STEP 8: Covering the Tank

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As with any newt or salamander set up prior to adding the occupants of course you will need to decide on an appropriate cover for the tank in order to prevent any escape attempts. There are a few options; canopy, glass or screen however with a terrarium habitat moisture retention is very important so I have devised my own Plexiglas/screen covers allowing for adequate ventilation via the screen in the rear, as well the Plexiglas front allows moisture to held within. Small hinges affixed allow for easy removal if necessary and easy access to the habitats.

 

More photos and steps to follow as progress continues.....however with the exception of a nicer stand besides the current bedroom dresser, the lighting system and more species the tank is otherwise complete and already in use :)

 

MY BLUE SPOTTED SALAMANDER
 

SAMANTHA
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Meet Sam. Short for Samantha. She is a Blue Spotted salamander; Ambystoma laterale.   My father was tearing up a section of land to install a driveway for a coupe outside of town, when he stopped to remove a rock in the way. Upon picking it up he noticed something move and bent down for closer inspection...it was Sam :) Another minute and she wouldn't be with me. She was very lucky!  Her patients has paid off...with the completion of the above terrarium she has been moved into her new home.
 

MY EMPEROR NEWTS
 

JOHN, SCOTT AND SASHA
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More photos to come soon with luck. Purchased early April 2003. Three very healthy and quite rare Emperor newts; Tylotriton verrucosus. Originally 4 were ordered however while residing in the warehouse one escaped and unfortunately was not found in time :(  2 of the newts were for myself, while the other two, now one was for my best friend John. Due to shipping and border issues however, his newt is now permanently staying with me.....good for me ;) but not for John. As a result I have named his newt John after him. I have determined 2 as males and one lone female, thus naming them John; the large newt seen on the left in both photos, Scott and the female Sasha who recently passed away (see memorial garden). John and Scott are doing wonderful and eat heartily...getting a little plump too ;)
 

JOHN

My largest male recovered fully from a broken jaw at purchase and is off the liquid diet and back to live foods. His jaw healed slightly crooked but is nonetheless healed. No enlargement due to poor photo quality.
 

SCOTT
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The other dominating male in the terrarium is far more serene than John, preferring to huddle around Sasha when John isn't around ;)