Newts rely more on surface area versus water volume, and therefore aquariums and terrariums with a larger depth is more suitable for newts. Standard made tanks measure 12 inches in depth, whereas reptile tanks measure 18 inches in depth, thus allowing for more surface area. This is due to the fact that newts roam mainly on the bottom of the tank, and use decorations to climb on, whereas fish use the water volume to swim, and any decorations added decrease their area and quickly becomes overcrowded.

Depending upon the specie of newt chosen, the appropriate living environment must first be determined. Species including the Carpathian and the Crocodile or Emperor newt, are referred to as a terrestrial species, and thus require a land-based habitat, referred to as a terrarium. However, the majority of newt species including the Eastern, Japanese Fire Belly or Chinese Dwarf newt for example, are generally well adapted to a mainly aquatic existence. These species spend more of their time in the water than others, and some newts are even more or less completely aquatic. Keep in mind that some aquatic newts do prefer the land, it is not an uncommon occurrence. Just be sure there isn't an illness or water quality problem that may be preventing the newt from frequenting the water. Sometimes starting with a 50/50 water to land ratio is best to allow the newt ample time to adjust to the habitat and choose which area is more preferred. After a few months of adaptation you can adjust the habitat according to your newts' preference...raise or lower the water level, add more or less land areas. On the other hand, salamanders are mainly terrestrial in nature and require a terrarium habitat with the exception of a few species including axolotls, hellbenders and mudpuppies which are totally aquatic.   

WARNING: Never use detergents or any cleansers to clean your aquarium or terrarium, as they can leave harmful, toxic residue behind. This would be absorbed through the newts' skin. Thoroughly rinse with warm water and a clean sponge instead.


Depending on the species respiration can be accomplished using 4 distinct methods: First, caudates thin, permeable skin allows oxygen to be absorbed directly into their system called cutaneaous respiration. Second, all species of newts poses lungs which function in much the same manner as our own, called pulmonary respiration. Third, is a process called buccopharnygeal respiration which is when oxygen is pumped in from the nares (similar to our nostrils) and is absorbed at the back of the mouth. Prominent chin vibrations or throat pulsations are frequently observed in caudates. A process similar to human respiration, inhaling and exhaling using our chest muscles. As the caudates chin expands or lowers, the nares open to allow oxygen in. When the throat pushes upwards the nares close, forcing oxygen back into the lungs. Some of that oxygen is absorbed at the back of the mouth. Fourth, is branchial respiration which is the use of gills as in the aquatic larval stage of most newts and salamanders.
 

TERRARIUMS:

This can be set up using a variety of materials. A layer of soil can be placed in the bottom of the terrarium, but needs to be replaced occasionally due to the absorption of ammonia. Cleaning becomes more difficult with a more complex layout, as you'll have to disturb the overall set up. A layer of gravel on the bottom of the terrarium versus the soil is more economical and cleaning is easier achieved. Covering the gravel, or soil, with moss such as terrarium or carpet moss, creates a pleasing set up to the eye and a soft, warm and natural environment for your newts. Leaves can also be added for a more natural appearance, and is much easier to maintain. After arranging the moss, adding rocks, driftwood and plants provide shelter and hiding places for your newts, for a more natural look. Using a small spray bottle, with a fine mist, periodically spray the moss in order to prevent drying. Moss should be kept moist, but not wet. A very shallow water area should be incorporated into your terrarium, or a water bowl can also be used, as all species require a certain amount of water for survival. Be certain that the water area is shallow enough that the newts can easily access or exit. This can be done by constructing a sloping bank or, when using a bowl, placing sticks or rocks into it. Terrestrial species are generally not good swimmers, and must be able to exit the water easily, or they may exhaust themselves trying to get out and could drown. This also applies to terrestrial species housed improperly in deep water with no access to dry land. For step-by-step instructions on how to set up a live terrarium with pictures please click here.

One type of terrarium moss available.

VIVARIUM OR AQUARIUM:

This set up should be composed mainly of water, I prefer 3/4 water and 1/4 land area. Gravel used should be too large to be swallowed, and avoid sharp or rough edges that could injure your newts. Smooth, rounded stones are preferable. Always pre-rinse new gravel several times, and then place 2-3 inches onto the bottom of the aquarium. Even after several rinses, new gravel will retain a certain amount of residue or dust, and can cause the water to become cloudy. Although this takes away from the appearance of the aquarium, it is not harmful to the newts and eventually will be filtered out or removed during partial water changes. Always include a small land area, or more if desired, for the newts to emerge on, as they do require easy access to a terrestrial area. This species of newt will exit the water as needed, and at different times. The amount of time spent on land depends on the individual. Plexiglas ledges can be constructed, and gravel affixed to the surface using aquarium silicone, to allow for easier access and a non-slippery surface. Ready-made gravel or plastic ledges can also be purchased at some pet stores. Ledges are recommended because they can be conveniently adjusted to all water levels and easily removed for cleaning. Water should not cover the ledge, but stop at the base for easy access. These can be covered with moss for added comfort. Placing a cave or small tree with plants provides shelter and resting areas. Rocks can be piled in a corner, breaking the surface of the water and driftwood can be added. Floating items, such as lily pads, and other floating plants can be purchased in pet stores and also used for adequate land areas.

Front and side view of hand-made ledges.
 

NOTE:  Newts and salamanders do not drink water as we do in order to retain moisture, therefore preventing dehydration. Instead, caudates accomplish this by drawing moisture from their surroundings and absorbing it directly through their porous skin. This is why moisture in the habitat is essential. All habitats, terrestrial or aquatic must posses moist/wet areas as it is vital to their survival. Without this necessity, they will dehydrate and perish.
 

STAND:

Once filled, the aquarium will be heavy, so it is best to determine where you are going to place it before-hand. Assemble the aquarium on a stand suitable to the size of tank, and that can support the weight, without warping or bending. It must be supported on all four corners so that the aquarium doesn't crack or leak. Level the stand to be sure it's sturdy and does not wobble. Standard-made manufacturer aquarium stands are designed to properly support the weight, and are highly recommended. Never place the stand directly beside extreme heat or cold sources, as this will cause the temperature to fluctuate rapidly, and never above anything electrical that can cause fire or be damaged by accidental water spills. If sunlight hits the glass of an aquarium, this will promote the unsightly growth of algae. Although harmless to the newts, it will make for harder and more frequent maintenance. This can easily be prevented by re-locating the aquarium away from the path of direct sunlight, by leaving curtains or blinds closed or by covering the window. NEVER use chemicals or any algae destroying products. Most algae destroying products state on the side label: "Harmful if absorbed through the skin". Therefore, these products would be harmful, perhaps even fatal to the newts, as newts' skin is porous and everything is absorbed through it; water, oxygen and therefore any associated chemicals as well.

DECORATIONS:

Decorations can be added, but purchased at a pet store to ensure they are constructed of non-toxic materials. Some plastic and silk decorations are constructed using internal supports. Years ago, these internal supports were made of wire and when introduced into an aquatic situation, the wire would rust, causing high lead levels in the habitat. However, these can no longer be obtained. Supports are used in most artificial plants today, however they are constructed using a non-toxic lead-based material which is completely safe for use in any situation; aquatic or terrestrial. Any ornaments constructed of plastic or plexiglas, is also safe for aquarium use. Soaking in warm water briefly will remove any dust accumulated from sitting on store shelves, never use chemicals or any cleansers. Besides plastic or silk, live plants are also a consideration for decorating your aquarium or terrarium. There is no right or wrong answer, it comes down to a matter of personal taste and choice. 

LIVE PLANTS provide a more natural habitat for newts. They also absorb some of the wastes produced such as ammonia, thus contributing to a healthy environment, as well can aid in purifying and oxygenating the water. However, decaying plants must be promptly removed or can produce harmful wastes. In order to maintain health and growth, fertilizer tablets such as Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Root Tabs or liquid fertilizers such as Nutrafin Plant Gro are suggested. It may be possible for live plants to bring in pests such as snails and worms. Sometimes the plants can introduce parasites which may cause disease. Purchasing plants from pet stores can greatly reduce the risk. Live plants also require a good lighting source, and newts do not require long periods of light. Depending on the lighting source used, it could produce too much heat for the newts, causing stress if the lights are left on for long periods of time. Choosing a florescent plant growth bulb will benefit both the plants and newts, as well reducing the possibility of heating the tank.

ARTIFICIAL PLANTS,  either silk or plastic, are readily available in a variety of colors, designs and sizes. Artificial plants are also constructed of non-toxic materials and free of parasites or pests. Unlike live plants, they do not decay and therefore will not pollute the tank or grow too large. If artificial plants become dirty they are easily removed and cleaned. If required, live plants can be difficult to clean without damaging them. Artificial plants do not require lighting or special care. 

Driftwood is a nice addition and available in the reptile section of pet stores. These manufactured woods are safe and guaranteed free of parasites and bacteria. Wood found in the wild is not recommended, as bacteria and parasites can burrow deep into the wood and cannot be sterilized out. Rocks however, can be cleaned and sterilized by placing in a pot of boiling water for a good ten minutes, to prevent the spread of diseases. NEVER use any toxic cleaning chemical such as bleach or disinfectants on wood or other porous materials, as these will soak into the wood. Even frequent soakings can still retain a certain amount of the chemical, and will seep out into the water over time. Even though large bodies of water allow for some dissipation, this can still be detrimental to the newts' health as again, these chemicals would be absorbed through the skin. Small bodies of water are even more harmful, even fatal.

Various backgrounds can also be purchased, and are highly recommended. These are available in various heights to fit your aquarium, and are easy to cut and install. Newts will become stressed if too much open space is exposed. Backgrounds with pictures of rocks and trees will make your newts feel more at "home" by producing a more natural appearance.

COVER:

Newts can easily climb up the sides of glass and escape through even the smallest of cracks, so a secure cover is a must. Newts can't survive long on the floor and will perish before long. There are a few choices of covers to choose from including canopies, glass and screens, all of which work well.

The canopy provides a built-in light for the aquarium or terrarium and some heat, depending on the type of bulb used, whereas the others require an alternate lighting source. The front flap(s) should be left open and a screen custom-fitted to the opening to allow for adequate ventilation and to prevent the newts from escaping as well. The majority of canopy covers are equipped with a plastic section at the rear. A series of small holes can be drilled throughout to provide sufficient ventilation and increase air circulation. However, the opening of the canopies are small, which makes cleaning quite difficult. Removal of the canopies can be awkward, heavy on larger tanks, and inconvenient. 

Glass covers tends to be fairly heavy, and water will splash onto the glass, leaving a hard water film. Cleaning becomes more frequent and difficult in order to remove the build-up. Keep in mind that if a heavy object is dropped onto the glass cover, causing it to shatter, it would send shards of glass directly into the tank. Glass covers only allow for minimal ventilation and can keep the tank humid. This can be useful for newts, especially terrestrial species (terrariums), as dry substrates will draw water out of the body, thus causing the newt to dehydrate. The humidity will help prevent this from occurring. Humidity levels must be kept low to moderate only. This retention in moisture and humidity is essential in preventing the substrate from drying out. The main concern is the increase in temperature, as this can cause stress to the newts. Due to the minimal ventilation, hot summer months can raise the temperature substantially, especially when using a lighting system. However, most glass covers are equipped with a plastic section at the rear. A series of small holes can be drilled throughout to provide sufficient ventilation and increase air circulation, thus reducing the chance of the growth of moulds and fungi and helps keep the temperature lower.

Plexiglas covers are preferred over glass. They are light weight, with no chance of breakage.

This may be when screen covers can come in handy. These are lightweight and quickly and easily removed. Constructing your own using materials purchased from local hardware stores are not only more economical, but can also be custom-made to the size and dimensions of your aquarium or terrarium. However, be aware if using a screen cover on a terrestrial habitat, the risk of drying out the substrate drastically increases. Also, if using moss in the terrarium and a screen cover, be sure to mist periodically using a spray bottle of water to keep moist, as a dry substrate will draw moisture from the newts' body. To prevent this from occurring, constructing a plexiglas/screen combo cover is recommended in a terrarium situation. Full screen covers also allow for maximum ventilation. These may be more practical than a full glass or canopy cover in most situations.

LIGHTING:

Not necessarily needed for newts, as they do not bask under the light as reptiles, nor do they require lighting in order to obtain vitamin D and other nutrient intakes. Lighting systems for newt habitats are used mainly for pleasure, to accent your aquarium or terrarium. They not only add beauty, but can also be used to assist in breeding. Regardless of the type of bulb used, the lighting system should only be used a maximum of 6-8 hours a day. Thus creating a day and night cycle. A natural habitat, as well as photo period, should be mimicked as much as possible in the captive environment. Timers can also be used in order to easier achieve this period of "day and night".

There are two types of lighting available:

INCANDESCENT produces a bright, yellow light. These bulbs, if used, should be placed at least 10 inches to a foot above the water level or enclosure. Incandescent bulbs become quite hot quickly, therefore heating the water and will dry out the air and substrate if left on for long periods of time. The bulbs must also be housed in a sealed unit in order to prevent the newts from being able to come in direct contact with the bulbs, thus causing burns and sores.

Incandescent bulbs need to be changed every 6 months regardless of use, needed or not. This is due to the fact that the spectrum of the light will change and promotes the growth of algae. This is hastened with the combination of the incandescent bulb and direct sunlight hitting the aquarium walls.

FLORESCENT produces a cool, white light that is as close to natural sunlight as possible in a captive environment. These generate less heat, thus preventing the risk of burns and high water temperatures. These also have a longer life than incandescent and are only required to be replaced every few years. There are many selections of specialty bulbs to choose from, all with various light spectrums: for less or more intensity, to change the UV rays and even bulbs that promote and stimulate plant growth.

It is still best to house the bulbs in a sealed unit and some distance from the enclosure. Not out of concern for burns, but as a safety measure to prevent the newts from coming into contact with the bulbs and most importantly, the electrical wiring, resulting in possible shock.