Temperature applies not only for aquatic species, but terrestrial as well. Terrarium temperatures must also be monitored. Some of the heating and cooling methods described below can be used for terrestrial species. Moisture/humidity in the terrarium is vital, so beware when using any methods to avoid drying out the substrate.

Newts must be housed at fairly cool temperatures in order to prevent stress. At high temperatures, newts become prone to infections, disease and parasites, which can spread rapidly throughout the community. 60-70F (16-21C) is ideal. However, one should not purposely try to heat nor cool the water in order to attempt to maintain a constant temperature. This will only result in fluctuations and sharp temperature spikes, causing high stress levels. Newts will naturally adapt to any changing temperatures. Heating or cooling should only be used for attempts at breeding, or in extreme temperature conditions. Generally in a captive environment, extremely hot or cold conditions rarely happen.
 

Newts and salamanders are ectothermic which means that their body heat is derived and determined by external sources such as the sun, warmth from the ground or even water. A better term might even be poikilothermic: Amphibians normally allow their body temperature to fluctuate with their surroundings. Their body temperature is usually approx. 2 degrees above their surrounding temperature. Ground dwelling amphibians, terrestrial newts and salamanders are subject to slight temperature changes living along the forest floor, but not nearly as drastic as we experience living in urban areas. Newts and salamanders move from shade to shelter throughout the seasons in order to help control their body temperature.
 

HEATING:

60F (16C) and below, would be considered extreme cold conditions. At temperatures below 40F (4C) newts will enter hibernation, and as temperatures fall below 0F (-18C), the newts will perish. This would be the only instance in which heaters would be recommended. Remember, newts prefer cool temperatures and an additional heat source is needed only if the newts are in a "cold" room. Generally room temperature, in most situations, is ideal unless of course the room temperature is below 60F (16C), which is rare. These are a few methods which can be used successfully in order to raise aquarium or terrarium temperatures:

PORTABLE ROOM HEATERS with automatic shut-off for safety can be used for external heating. These are safe and effective. Keep in mind however that this method can take some time to become effective and produce visible results. This is due to the fact that you are heating the tank externally, therefore the room temperature in which the tank is located, must be substantial in order to impact the tanks overall temperature. However, this reduces the creation of hot spots, instead allowing for an overall temperature change. Space heaters, baseboard heaters, radiators and home heating methods such as furnaces and wood stoves are also included.

INTERNAL HEATERS are another method used for heating. Although mainly used for aquariums, some models can operate successfully in as little as 2 inches of water, thus allowing these heaters to be used in the shallow water areas of terrariums as well. These provide faster and accurate results. However, adequate circulation must be provided in order to prevent hot spots. Also, it is advisable if using this method, to encase the heater in order to prevent the newts from coming into direct contact with the hot glass or the element. This is easily accomplished. Heater guards can be purchased for various models at most pet stores. Also, a rounded sponge from a filtration system, such as the sponge filter can be fitted over the heater element, thus allowing the heat to radiate but preventing the newts from coming into direct contact. Unless heat resistant, plastic is best avoided as it may become quite warm and may melt as well. Regardless, some form of heater guard should always be used, as at high temperatures, or as a result of frequent contact, newts may develop burns or sores, thus allowing for bacterial and/or fungal infections to attack the injury sites.

Most heaters can be set at a desired temperature and will automatically shut-off and turn on. Capacity and other factors such as proximity to cold air and heat ducts will determine the wattage required. 

Internal heater unit and guard.

There are also a variety of HEAT LAMPS and other types of HEATING PADS available. However, most are not suitable for newts as they will only heat a specific spot. Newts do not bask in order to warm up, as would lizards. Be cautious if using any of these methods as there are products available which are for internal use and produce avid amounts of heat. Such devices can pose serious burn hazards to the newts when in direct contact, especially if used for extensive periods of time. When using heating pads, only under-tank heating pads are preferred in order to heat the tank externally and also to eliminate the chance of the newts burning themselves on the elements. Hot rocks, commercially available for lizards and other reptiles, are best completely avoided as these produce extremely high temperatures and again, poses serious burn issues. External heating sources are preferred over the above internal methods however, caution should always be exercised when using any of these methods.  

COOLING:

More often a consideration in the captive environment. Temperatures of 80F (27C) and above would be considered extreme heat conditions. In these instances, the temperature must be lowered. High temperatures will result in bacterial and/or fungal infections. Rapid throat pulsations can indicate heat stress, and often aquatic species will leave the water, if too warm. Keep in mind that even though some species are native to fairly tropical, warm climates, newts live deep within heavily wooded areas on the forest floors, found most commonly under damp leaves and logs, close to quiet streams or ponds. Newts do not experience the extreme heat waves and humidity as we do within the urban and rural areas. Thus, cooling is often needed during summer months, as these temperatures are too warm for most species. Remember, newts prefer cool temperatures and in these situations, room temperature generally is too warm and cooling methods are essential if the temperature rises to 80F (27C) and above.

FROZEN, PLASTIC POP BOTTLES can be placed within an aquarium or terrarium in order to lower the temperature. However, this method, if used continuously in an aquatic habitat, can cause changes or fluctuations in the pH levels, as well as altering the overall temperature. pH can be affected depending on water volume and aquarium size. The larger the aquarium and the more water volume, will have substantially less impact, if any, on the pH levels. On the other hand, relatively small aquariums, or small bodies of water, will experience more drastic, more noticeable pH and temperature changes. This method is best used for temporary, otherwise minor temperature changes, and pH levels should be monitored regularly. Also keep in mind that during the hot and humid summer months, most generally when a cooling method is needed, frozen pop bottles or ice cubes as they thaw would need to be replenished almost constantly in order to keep a constant temperature and to avoid large fluctuations.  

Although not always cost efficient, due to the high power outage required, AIR CONDITIONERS are beneficial to both you and your newts. They are faster, easier and more convenient and a more constant temperature can be easier achieved. Air conditioner units can be set to a desired temperature and will automatically shut-off and turn on.

THERMOMETERS:

Thermometers are a vital item which must be used for your aquarium and humidity gauges for terrariums. These will greatly aid in controlling your temperatures. Thermometers come in a variety of styles and models. Some float on the surface, some are hung from the tanks rim and some are affixed to the inside of the tank via a suction cup. Thermometers give quick and easy temperature readings, in order to maintain a comfortable temperature for your newts and to monitor heat levels.